Controlling Form.







Experimenting with components to control the shape and bend of hinges whilst still allowing the design to be fully adjustable and easy to manipulate.


The use of string or rope can allow for many other components to become involved in a design for an object. Rope or string can be manipulated the most and also threaded through the hinge design as well as simply through certain parts to really limit the movement. String allows for a pulley system to be involved which means the hinge design can be controlled using cleats, ties and weights.

Elastic bands are also a successful way to control the hinges but only in one direction unless a frame is used to increase support of the hinge.


Refining the design.


The design of the light has been developed from a previous project, so there have been a few problems to fix. One of them is the stability of the light, this was only fully realised when the light fitting and other components were put on top. The light fitting is brass, which is quite weighty and meant that it was too easy to knock over the light. As the design is almost impossible to change without starting from the beginning. I have chosen to add a stand at the bottom. It fits with the  flat pack concept and simply slots together in a similar way. The final stands will be made in the same materials and finished in the same way as the light.

No longer waiting to pour.



We poured bronze!! Such an intense process, but we made it. The bronze took about an hour and a half to melt down, then it was a time challenge to pour the bronze with speed and accuracy. It needs to be done quickly to force the air from the shell moulds to prevent any air bubbles from creating imperfections. I was in charge of aiming the bronze whilst another student poured. It all happened so fast and was so hot. Definitely worth the wait. Next I need to cut apart the bronze and begin to polish it.

Getting impatient.

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Let’s shed some light.

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Finally have found some direction with my ready made light. I want to use usually domestic materials such as stripped back light shades to create a more industrial styled artifact. I am hoping to make this light versatile, I want it to be able to be used almost anywhere. So, I want it to be: a table light, a hanging light, a floor light and even be able to be dropped and rolled around. To do this I need to source some good springs to take the shocks and also some light bulbs that don’t get crazy hot. The form of the light will probably now take into consideration the function I want it to perform. Quite excited to source these components.

Raw light box.

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The raw. Some development of my initial idea. I have been experimenting with materials for the outside of the light box, I am planning to use wood veneer. It has a good translucency when light is put behind it.

The bronze bulb I am putting on top of box is on it’s way! I’m still going through the process of creating the shell using wax bulbs on a kind of tree contraption that is dipped in liquid and has a grainy almost dust poured over.

More finished pictures will be arriving soon.

Having a blast.


Sand blasting induction. Because of the thickness of the ceramic I decided to give sandblasting a go to thin out the surface. Unfortunately the ceramic is not a consistent thickness and the nature of sandblasting means that holes were created where the ceramic was thinner. This is unfortunate, but I have plans that will incorporate my thick and thin pieces.

In search of the light.

Over the easter break I went back to basics with my paper mache. Firing my objects is a long process as they must be bisque fired before being fired at 1280, so experimentation with the materials that are lost during firing is interesting. It allows me to play with ideas and positions of my works. This is also useful because the work is fragile once fired.

Porcelain. Finally.


My first experiments in porcelain. These forms have been inspired by the Ikea paper light itself, I have dismantled one by taking out the coiled wooden support. It still has a spherical shape,  but this can be manipulated to created more interesting deflated forms. I have recreated these forms using balloons, newspaper and tissue paper.

The porcelain slip is much thicker than the earthenware I have been using previously so I have only dipped the balloons once. They were also harder to coat as the porcelain retains a memory so wants to return to a lump like state. I have more to “dip” ready for firing next week.

First arduino set up.


Playing with a basic set up of movement using a knob as the sensor and a cervo motor as an actuator,  now I have a basic understanding of programming and that I want to play with LED lights, motion sensors and my ceramic work to project images onto the “shells”.